Andy Jensen
Director
In the world of fashion and personal style, jewelry has always held a special place in nearly every culture from the dawn of civilization. Adorning oneself with precious metals and gemstones has been a symbol of status, beauty, and self-expression. However, a new trend has been emerging in recent years that takes the concept of jewelry on an unexpected path—permanent jewelry. What exactly is permanent jewelry, and why is it gaining popularity among fashion enthusiasts and jewelry aficionados alike?
According to Christine Coughlin, owner of Flash and Fuse, a permanent jewelry boutique in Boston, in its simplest form permanent jewelry is clasp-less, welded jewelry. Permanent jewelry is a bracelet, anklet, or necklace with both ends of the chain linked together with a jump ring, the jump ring being welded closed with a special welder. Unlike traditional jewelry pieces that are worn temporarily and can be removed at will, permanent jewelry is intended to be a permanent fixture on the body. Like a piercing or tattoo, permanent jewelry can be a reminder of a significant event, significant other, or just something beautiful that accents one’s fashion style. Like traditional jewelry, permanent jewelry provides a way to adorn and compliment, but in a more permanent way.
“My favorite part is that its custom fit,” says Shari Tammietti, owner of Permanent Jewelry Training. “It always fits, no matter what size you wear.” Shari goes on to explain that permanent jewelry simplifies jewelry. Gone is the chore of picking a bracelet to wear, though some certainly enjoy that aspect of jewelry—and certainly permanent jewelry can be complimented by traditional jewelry. Like permanent makeup, permanent jewelry is a boon to those that want to roll out of bed and head to the office with minimal fuss.
At its core, permanent jewelry is about more than just complimenting one's style – it's about embracing self-expression and celebrating individuality. In a society that often pressures individuals to conform to certain beauty standards, permanent jewelry offers a form of empowerment, allowing wearers to reclaim ownership of their bodies and express themselves on their own terms. The chain is a personal, custom decision. The length of the chain reflects a personal dimension. The placement of the chain is a personal decision. Extra chain is not a permanent jewelry experience, just as having to deal with a clasp is not part of the permanent jewelry experience.
Danielle Watt, who is a long-time jewelry artist and proprietor of River Valley Designs, also points to the benefits of having a clasp-less bracelet. “One of the best parts is that you don’t have extra chain hanging down from a bracelet with a clasp.” Getting permanent jewelry is a custom, personal experience.
“A lot of people have dexterity issues,” says Kim Thompson of Love, Eros, a boutique in Chattanooga. “Not having to clasp something on your own is a benefit of permanent jewelry.” Kim Thompson stresses that those who choose to wear permanent jewelry are attracted to high-end chains, such as silver and 14k gold, as they are less likely to tarnish and stand up to everyday wear and tear.
The price that a customer will pay for a permanent bracelet is primarily dependent upon location. In downtown Chattanooga, Kim Thompson charges a premium for her service as she only uses high quality silver of 14k gold chain. Pricing for her clientele start at $80 per bracelet. On the other hand, Shari Tammietti and Danielle Watt, who do business in a more rural setting, sell comparable bracelets for less. In the Boston area, Christine Coughlin says her average chain sells for about the same as it does in Chattanooga.
Placing a permanent bracelet is accomplished in five easy steps:
1. Choose and Measure Chain. Your permanent jewelry artist (also referred to as a permanent jewelry technician) will show you a display of the chain they offer. Once you choose your chain they'll measure your wrist and then cut the chain to that length.
2. Connect the Chain with a Jump Ring. Your permanent jewelry artist will wrap the chain around your wrist. Next, the artist will connect both ends of the chain using a jump ring. A jump ring is a small, silver or gold ring that has been cut, allowing the permanent jewelry artist to place the two ends of the chain inside the jump ring. The artist will use a pair of pliers to hold he jump ring. The pliers are usually ground and connected a permanent jewelry welder™, such as an Orion mPulse™, Orion PJ™, or Zapp™. The artist will use pliers to move the two ends of the jump ring together, so they are tight against each other.
3. Check for Safety. The permanent jewelry artist will place a small leather patch between your skin and the jump ring. This will protect you from the off chance that the jump ring becomes unexpectedly hot during the welding process (it rarely happens, but your artist will do all they can to ensure a pleasant experience). You'll also be asked to either look away during the welding process or view the process while recording the experience with your smartphone. Remember what grandpa always said: Never watch someone weld without proper eye protection. Your permanent jewelry artist will protect their eyes using special glasses or an auto darkening lens (or ADL).
4. Weld the Jump Ring Closed. With the jump ring holding both ends of the chain and with safety assured, the permanent jewelry artist will weld the two ends of the jump ring together, so the chain can not be removed. Of course, you can always use a nail clipper to cut open the jump ring and remove the bracelet. The jump ring can be closed again at any time.
5. Polish the Chain. Your permanent jewelry artist will take a fiberglass brush to clean up the welded jump ring. Accomplished permanent jewelry artists will use argon gas to produce a cleaner, stronger weld. And that completes the process, which should take about 10 minutes from start to finish.
Starting your permanent jewelry business requires little in upfront investment. The top permanent jewelry welders start at $999, come with 3-year warranties, and responsive customer service. You can also purchase a permanent jewelry starter kit to get all the tools you need, and then invest in what chain you feel will be most popular with your customers. As a general rule, you should be able to recoup your investment after selling 50 to 70 bracelets.
"Just start," says Kim Thompson. "If you want to get into the business, then just get started."
You're more likely to find permanent jewelry artists at fairs, farmer's markets, and other events or within a salon or boutique. Wherever your target audience is, that's where you'll want to be. The majority of permanent jewelry artists only work remote events (which they call pop-up's), because the overhead is considerably low and the margins are much higher. Others pay rent for a spot in a salon or already own a salon or boutique.
Your permanent jewelry's durability is defined by how long it will stay around your wrist or ankle and how well the metal surface stands up to the elements. The durability of your permanent bracelet or anklet is dependent upon three factors:
1. Type of Metal. 14k gold is the "gold" standard when it comes to durability. Gold is less likely to tarnish. Silver is a good choice, too, but more likely to react with the elements and tarnish. A less-expensive alternative to 14k gold is gold-fill (not to be confused with gold plated). Avoid plated metals as they don't weld strongly and wear faster.
2. Permanent Jewelry Location. Bracelets are more likely than anklets to catch on something and break. Note that you should choose a chain that will break when caught, for safety reasons; avoid thick and heavy chains.
3. Skill Level. Like any artisan, you should expect your permanent jewelry artist to follow best practices, be knowledgeable about which metals weld best, and closely inspect their work to verify a strong, dependable weld. Ask your artist if they are using argon gas, as it produces a stronger weld. Ask your artist if the welder they are using is certified for safety. Ask your artist what permanent jewelry training they have completed or if they have attended events such as the Permanent Jewelry Expo or a member of the Permanent Jewelry Association.
You can find the most accomplished permanent jewelry artists on directories such as the Permanent Jewelry Directory. Or, simply Google "permanent jewelry near me." Permanent jewelry artists can be booked online for private appointments. Soon-to-be brides will contract an artist to be present at a wedding part where all bridesmaids get matching bracelets. You'll also see artists hosted at permanent jewelry parties.
Does Permanent Jewelry Interfere with TSA? No. Our fine TSA officers don't ask you to remove jewelry when going through airport security. Permanent jewelry is jewelry and doesn't have to come off.
What About X-rays, CAT scans, and MRI's? The quick answer is permanent jewelry can be easily removed for these procedures and then welded again. All you need is a pair of nail clippers to cut a jump ring or fine chain. For most of us, x-rays, CAT scans, and MRI's are not a usual occurrence. Don't let something that may happen discourage you from choosing to get permanent jewelry.
Will Permanent Jewelry Tarnish? Of course. Like all jewelry, you should clean your bracelet or anklet often. Chemicals you find in pools will tarnish your permanent jewelry. Gold is less likely to tarnish than any other metal.
What about Sports? Most contact sports prohibit you from wearing any type of jewelry, and that includes permanent jewelry.
To learn more about permanent jewelry, or to start your own permanent jewelry business, visit www.permanent.jewelry or call or text +1 801-658-0015.